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Both are available in paperback as well at Amazon.com. I love the printed copy but the eBook edition is accessible on iphone, ipad etc for ease-of-use in the arena.

Spin Fixes is an EBook!

Just released! Spin Fixes in Kindle format for computer, smart phones, pads and Kindle readers! Two day introductory offer - download free January 12-13, 2013 at http://www.amazon.ca/Spin-Fixes-Handbooks-Reiners-ebook/dp/B00AZORZ90/ref=pd_ys_iyr_img This link is for Amazon.ca. If you live in another country, find the Amazon site in your country to purchase.
( You will need the reader for this. If you don't already have the Kindle reader for your device of choice you can download free on Amazon Kindle)

Spin Fixes is a reference manual for riders of reining horses. Fifteen common spin problems are listed with a clear explanation of each problem and detailed solutions. It is the goal of the author to give riders the tools to help their horses achieve a higher level of  performance. If a rider does not have access to or cannot afford a coach, the Kindle edition of Spin Fixes can offer immediate help - in the arena, at the show or at home. If his horse having a problem with a spin, he can bring up Spin Fixes on his smart phone or pad, find on the appropriate chapter, read the exercise (possibly while still sitting on his horse) and improve the maneuver.

Several photos are included and a quick reference included for ease of use.

Spin Fixes is the first of a series of Handbooks for Reiners. The second in the series is Stop Fixes, to be released spring 2013.


Amazon requires that the content of this book not be made available in digital format while enrolled in KDP Select. Therefore I have removed most of the previous posts titled, "Spin Fixes" until this book is out of KDP program. I have left the last post, Spin Fix #14: Eliminate Freeze Up, as a sample of what is in the book.

The good news is that you can get all the information and it will be at your finger tips any where, any time by downloading this ebook. It's free until Sunday at midnight at the above link. Happy spinning!

Spin Fix #15: Overspinning and Underspinning

Spin Fix #14: Eliminate Freeze Up

The problem: Horse stops all lateral movement in a spin.

Why does this problem happen?

1. If a horse in basic spin training quits (freezes up) in schooling sessions, he is being asked too much too soon.

2. If the freeze up occurs with a well-trained horse that has not quit before, he is not accepting increased mental pressure or he is hurting.

3. If a horse freezes up in competition and he is not in the habit of doing that, it is probably rider error.

Note: A true “freeze up” is when a horse simply will not move away from the outside rein but any ceasing of motion in a spin will be designated a “freeze up” even if the horse has made a mental mistake and only stops motion for a second. The first is more of a training problem; the second is probably rider error.

How to correct this problem: If the horse is not sore anywhere, the next thing I check if my horse quits is me, especially in a schooling situation. Does he need more basic training? Did I ask for more speed too soon? Did I change something about the way I am sitting? Did I move my hand too quickly?  Or too much? If none of those things have happened, the only thing to do is re-introduce the spin slowly with close attention to correctness. Heavy pressure on the outside rein can cause a horse to freeze up. E.g. In competition, the horse is not spinning as fast as I would like and I pull harder in an attempt to speed him up. (This does not work at all but under pressure, any rider might pull!)

One of the most important things to keep in mind while spinning is not to make quick movements with either hands or body because the horse may interpret that movement as a request to stop. If he stops and starts again, he will still get a ‘freeze up’ penalty. If I bring my hand in the direction of the spin to start it and want to put it back in the middle for the spin, I can’t “drop” it suddenly in the middle or he will surely stop. After all, he is looking for “whoa”. Penalty time.

A horse can get in the habit of quitting as well if it happens much. With consistent signals he will learn to stop only when I ask him to and that is crucial in the pen. I switch it up lots – sometimes only a spin or two, sometimes six or eight. He must wait for the word.

If my horse does stop spinning and I have not asked him to, I have to correct with my outside leg (a bump or kick) to get him started again. If I’m schooling, I can pick the point I want to stop with no compromises; in competition, it’s not so easy unless I want to turn the run into a schooling run, which is not a bad idea if I’ve already incurred a two-point penalty for a ‘freeze up’. On the other hand, if it wasn’t the horse’s fault but mine…

‘Freezing up’ should not happen if the horse is trained to continue spinning as long as the rider is asking as in the photo below.

Spin Fix #13: Speeding Up the Spin

The problem: Horse will not spin faster when he is asked.

Why does this problem happen? If a horse will not speed up in the spin, he is either not correct enough to feel good about trying to spin faster or he does not “believe” the rider when asked for an increase in speed.

How to correct this problem: A horse must be able to spin correctly BEFORE he is asked to spin fast. If he is not comfortable turning around, he will not be willing to spin faster. If he’s schooled well in the basic spin – body aligned, responding to reins and legs – and he will start the spin quietly and turn almost on his own, then it’s time to ask for more.

Exercise: I “cluck” to ask for more. If I don’t feel an increase in speed, I bump with my leg. As soon as I feel him pick up the pace, I say “whoa” (that’s a reward) and release all body aids, then repeat. I want to instill in him right from the beginning that if he responds to my request for a faster turn around, he is rewarded. After only a few times, he will almost for sure spin faster with only a cluck. In a class, of course, I need four spins but if I have built my horse’s confidence by not asking too much in training and if he believes the voice command, he will be happy to spin until I ask him to shut down.

Exercise: I push my horse up in the bridle in a small circle, keeping him as straight as possible, until I feel him want to ‘find’the spin. Then I lower my hands, take my legs off of him, and ask. Usually he will gladly spin because the spin is more comfortable than the exercise.

Exercise: I let my horse spin a revolution or so, then pick up my reins to hold him straight and push him straight out of the spin – aggressively – stop him, settle him, and ask for spin again. After a few times, he will always try harder.

When I start teaching a horse to speed up his spin, I don’t try to accomplish everything in the first lesson. I push him a little more each day, always rewarding for his success. One thing that happens a lot is when a horse first tries to spin faster is that he might “hop” around. (See Spin With Cadence.) If that happens, I do not stop the spin when he is hopping; instead, I slow it down until he is stepping around again, then stop. It’s important to end the spin with correct movement.

Note: I don’t overdo fast spin schooling. Once my horse complies with my request, that’s all I want. If I concentrate more on schooling correctness, the speed will be easy! A reiner with a great spinning horse once told me his horse loved to spin fast because he had it figured out that the faster he did it, the faster it was over! That's what a good spin training program inspires - a horse that wants to spin.

Walking With Wolves

 

Spin Fix #12: Improving Front Leg Cross-Over

The problem: Horse hits himself when he spins or crosses behind.

Why does this problem happen?

1. The horse lacks forward motion (Yes, there is forward motion in the spin!) If he is sucking back, there is just no way he can cross over in front.

2. The horse steps directly to the side instead of stepping back.

3. The rider is pulling too much on the reins.

How to correct this problem: If my horse is hitting himself, I concentrate on getting forward motion in the spin which means pushing him out of the spin many, many times. All the basic rules for a turn around apply, of course, but I only turn maybe one turn (sit down, inside leg off, light outside rein contact against neck, wide opening inside rein, outside leg if needed). When he has completed one turn, I push him forward with both legs for a few steps, then ask for a turn around again. As soon as I feel him sucking back I push him out of it again, etc. If he has forward motion but is hitting himself because he is not bringing the inside leg back, I work on that by 'helping' him place that leg. I might have to break the spin down to a very basic level to fix it.

Splint boots are mandatory!

Note: When a horse hits himself in a spin (instead of stepping over the inside leg with the outside leg), he can hurt himself which, in turn, makes him not want to spin – kind of counter-productive! Also, he will never spin fast if he is hitting himself – he can actually get tangled up. A correct spin will begin with a step to the inside and back a bit (out of the way of the outside leg), and the outside leg crossing in front of the inside. I work on this before I worry about locking down on a pivot foot when I train the spin. If I spend time with this part of the spin, my horse is comfortable and the rest will take care of itself with time.

An example of  a horse stepping over his inside leg in a spin.

Spin Fix #11: Correcting 'Jumping' into the Spin

The problem: Horse jumps into spin instead of stepping quietly into the spin.

Why does this problem happen? When a horse jumps or ‘dives’ into a spin, it is almost certainly a training problem. Someone has spurred him to ask him to spin instead of encouraging him to calmly and quietly take a step.

How to correct this problem: It’s never good if the horse is scared and if he dives into a spin, he’s frightened. Our goal, as trainers/riders is to not let that happen but if it does, we have to get on a road back as soon as possible to establish trust and relaxation again. That means, again, going back to basics – right to the beginning of teaching the spin.

Exercise: After I have warmed up my horse – suppling, leg yielding, jogging, trotting and loping – I quietly walk him in a large circle. When he’s relaxed, I ask for a half spin to the inside of the circle – no jerking, no spurring, just asking by sitting down, opening the inside leg, and lifting the outside rein a bit and waiting. Waiting is big. At this point, one of two things might happen:

1. He doesn’t go anywhere. This is probably because his leap into the spin was in response to the spur, not outside rein and body aids. In that case, I help him with a little inside rein to direct him. If he takes one or two steps without leaping into it, I walk him out of it. If he still doesn’t move when I direct his nose with the inside rein, I bump him very softly with my outside foot or leg (not spur). Hopefully, he will take a step but if he jumps to the side, I stop him, walk him forward and try again only using a bump as a back up. It might take time to get his confidence back but it will work. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat.

2. He dives into the spin, probably with no style as well. As above, I will not let him continue if he jumps into the spin. I stop him, walk him forward and try again until he gets one quiet step, then reward him for that.

It’s important for the horse’s head and neck to be low before being asked for the spin. There will be two strikes against him before he starts if his head is up. So I always ask him to lower his head and neck before I ask for a spin. It may come up in the spin but at least we have started it correctly. He will be calmer with his head and neck low. What I want here is for the horse to be absolutely relaxed before I ask for the spin. Then, in response to a change in my body and a signal with outside rein that a spin is going to happen in a certain direction, I hope my horse will quietly tip his nose in the direction of the spin and quietly take that first step to the side and back. At that point, he is locked into the spin and I can ask for speed.

Note: I had a horse come to me for training once that did this. She obviously had been spurred hard into a turn around and that’s how she thought it was done. It took a few months to get it fixed but I just kept working on the beginning of the spin, not the spin itself until she relaxed and stepped. I did not continue if she didn’t step into the spin quietly. She has a fantastic spin now – starts slowly and correctly and spins a blur!

Spin Fix #10: Correct "Swapping Ends"

The problem: Horse throws hind quarters to the outside as he spins, thereby "swapping ends" instead of turning on the inside pivot foot.

Why does this problem happen? If the horse spins “like a top” (i.e. over his middle instead of his hind quarters), he’s not balanced over his pivot foot and has not been schooled enough in the basic turn around to want to do that. Probably he just wants to get around any way he can. He may be trying to hurry (or is encouraged to hurry) before he has mastered the basic maneuver.

How to correct this problem: If my horse is trying to spin like a top, I go back to basics. One thing for sure – he will not get better by practicing the spin incorrectly. I have to slow it all down, paying particular attention to the outside rein, keeping his body straight and encouraging him to lock his inside hind foot to turn. I may have to support him with a little more contact with the outside rein while directing him with the inside until he learns to pivot on the inside hind. (Beginner riders may not be able to tell if their horse is on the pivot foot so it is helpful to have someone watch.)

Exercise: I drive my horse forward in to a small circle keeping him straight between the reins (he may not want to be straight!) and bumping him with my legs for forward motion (he may not want to go forward either!) until he is accepting of what I am asking. Then I change my body (sit down and open inside leg) to ask for a turn around, but continue to bump with the outside leg until he initiates a turn. When he goes into the turn I quit bumping but keep body aids on for the turn for one turn or so. Any time he loses position (does not turn on pivot foot), I go back in to the circle again. I would not ask for many spins at the beginning until his position is consistent and correct in the turn around.

Note: When a horse spins like a top, he will not score well. Also, it can be hard to ride, especially if he is spinning fast. With the center of balance in the center of the horse instead of over the pivot foot, centrifugal force can throw a rider out of balance – even off the horse!

Spin Fix #9: Preventing Forward Steps

The problem: Horse creeps forward as he spins.

Why does this problem happen? If my horse is constantly moving forward when he spins, he is too ‘flat’ and not balanced over his pivot foot and is probably 'dropping his shoulders' and becoming too 'flat'. 

How to correct this problem: If my horse creeps forward in a spin, the first thing I do is go back to basics and thoroughly review the basic turn-around, being aware of correctness – body alignment, front leg steps and pivot foot. Unlike the first turn-around lessons where I concentrated more on correct front legs crossing over, I now think more of pivot foot. Is he turning on the correct foot? Is he, in fact, turning on the hind quarters? If he is not using his hind quarters, I will stop him every half-turn but will not allow him to walk forward. Instead, I collect him and ask for another half-turn. Also, if he is not taking that first step with his front foot to the side and back, then I work on that because that’s how he gets too flat and creeps forward. If he continues to flatten out I might, as a last resort, back him up a couple of steps and then ask for a turn-around, at all times being aware of his front legs – is he crossing in front and not hitting himself? When he executes half-turns, then whole turns and stays in one spot - neither backing up nor moving forward - I ask for more. If he flattens out too much in the spin again, I might be able to correct him in the spins by lifting my hands; if not, I stop the spin, collect and try again.

Note: A horse that creeps forward up in a spin does not stay in the geographical area of the spin (thereby incurring a low maneuver score in competition) and can become too “flat” and lose correctness and/or pivot foot.

Spin Fix #8*: Prevent Backing Up in Spins

The problem: Horse backs up when he spins.

Why does this problem happen? A horse may back up in a spin if he has been backed up into the spin too much (I rarely do this – and only to correct another problem – because a spin has forward movement) or because too much rein pressure has been applied while spinning. I have also seen horses with a huge amount of ‘stop’ back a little square as they spin – one step each quarter spin – and I’m all right with that.

How to correct this problem: If my horse wants to back up too much when spinning, I turn-around once, stop him, ask him to lower his head if it is up, and walk him forward into the bridle for a couple of steps. Then I ask him to turn around once again and repeat. After several corrections like this, he might stay correct in the spin for two or three turns. If I feel him backing up again, I push him forward out of it and ask for the spin again. It may take many repetitions of this exercise to change my horse’s mind about backing up while he is spinning but, as always, consistent repetition will correct the problem.

Note: A horse that consistently backs up in a spin not only does not stay in the geographical area of the spin (thereby incurring a low maneuver score in competition) but also will probably cross behind in front and/or hit himself as he tries to cross over.

Spin Fix #7: Keeping Head Low

The problem: Horse starts a spin with head low but raises it in the spin.

Why does this problem happen? A horse raises his head during a spin because he gets out of alignment or he just wants to leave!

How to correct this problem: If my horse is just learning to spin and raises his head in the spin, I might walk him out of it, correct any body alignment problems, ask him to lower his head and neck, ask for a spin again and repeat as necessary. If he is trained and raises his head in the spin, I will ask him to lower it again while he is in the spin (assuming his body position is correct), then finish the spin with his head low. To do this, I use gentle bumps with the inside rein if I cannot see his inside eye or the outside rein if he is overbent. Consistency is everything here - if I ask him to lower his head every time he brings it up, he will eventually see the futility of doing so.

Note: It is extremely important to end the spin with the horse’s head low. Otherwise he may think putting his head up is the way to get rewarded! If I absolutely cannot convince him to lower his head in the spin, I end the spin then ask him to lower his head...

Spin Fix #6: Start with Head Low

The problem: Horse steps into spin with his head and neck high.

If he does not start into the spin with his head low, the presentation is not as good as it could be and he may not ever lower it in the spin. A horse cannot spin well with his head and neck high. In this position, his back will be hollow and he will not be able to reach under with his pivoting hind leg.

Why does this problem happen? A horse raises his head when asked to spin for one of three reasons:

1. He has not learned to lower his head in response to rider aids

2. The rider does not ask him to lower his head

3. He is evading the request because he does not know what the rider is asking or he is scared.

If my horse raises his head instead of lowering it when I ask him to spin, I have not schooled the basics enough, especially a basic turn-around.

How to correct this problem: If I want my horse to step into the spin with his head low, I need to have the tools to ask that. If I have schooled basics well, I will be able to lower his head with a combination of rein and leg pressure and, with two hands on the reins, position him into the first step as described in previous post.

As training is refined, I want to be able to lower his head with leg pressure only like this: With two hands on the rein at first (later, with one), I slowly squeeze my legs around his barrel. At first, he will try to move forward, so I raise my hands just enough to stop him but keep squeezing. When he lowers his head just a little first, I lower my hands and reward. With repetition, I can encourage him to continue lower his head as far as I wish with almost no rein contact. When his head and neck are low, I lift my reins to ask for a spin. If he raises his head, I repeat – lower head, release rein pressure if I have applied any, ask for spin. I want him to start the spin correctly with his head low so if he doesn’t do that, I correct and repeat.

This exercise is very useful in the reining pen when my horse’s attention may be on something else just before I want to spin. By lowering his head and neck before I start into the spin, I have re-focused his attention on me and he is also in a perfect position for that first step into the spin.

Note: I see many, many riders ask for a spin when their horse is not in a good position to spin. I teach my students to take the time to prepare – lower the horse’s head and give him a chance to do the job well!

Spin Fix #5: 'Find' the Spin

The problem: Horse will not start into spin.

Why does this problem happen? If a horse will not even start into a spin, he has either not been schooled to spin or he has learned to hate it.

How to correct this problem: I go right back to the beginning to ‘fix’ a horse that freezes when I ask him to spin. One of the best ways is to let him “find” the spin like this: I walk him forward and lift the inside rein lightly (not strong contact at all, just enough to let him know something is happening). He may fuss a little, especially if he has some bad memories, but eventually he will drop his nose and turn into the rein. At this point it is absolutely imperative to lower my hand to reward him for complying. I use very little outside rein for this exercise (if he is really resistant, I use none…) and only enough inside until he figures out for himself how to release that little bit of pressure. If I pull hard, he will almost surely pull back so the trick is to just lift the inside rein to take the slack out.

When he relaxes into half turns, I ask for more until he regains confidence. At that point, I can begin to add other corrections - like straightening or speed or pivot foot. I need that first step or two to be willing to be able to advance training.

Note: I can feel very easily the spot where my horse relaxes into the turn - he softens, lowers his head and 'melts' into it. I build on that!

Spin Fix #4: Pivot on the Inside Hind

The Problem: Horse uses outside hind foot for pivot instead of inside hind foot. (Example: In a spin to the right, he pivots off of left hind foot.)

Why does this problem happen? As in the last post, Spin Fix #3, too much inside rein and too little outside rein can cause the horse to throw his weight to the outside in an effort to regain balance. Then his weight is on the outside hip and foot. If he has been spinning like this for a long time, he probably thinks that’s the way it’s done (and can be really good at it!) and it can be quite difficult to correct.

Example: Horse trying to spin on outside hind foot.

Example: Horse spinning on inside hind foot.

How to correct this problem:

First let me say this: Spinning the horse faster to try to get him to use his inside foot for pivot almost never works – he usually gets better and stronger at spinning incorrectly!

I slow things down to fix the problem (right back to a half-turn) and I exaggerate the correction – a half-turn, then a leg yield in the direction of the spin. Example: In a turn to the right, I ask him to spin to the right with a slight change in my body (to stop most of the forward motion), lift my left rein along his neck, pull-release with my right rein. At the half-turn, I change his head direction to the left with a wider left rein and leg yield him to the right. This will transfer his weight back to the right pivot foot. I do this many, many times before asking him for a full turn, then a leg-yield. The important thing now is to never allow him to continue turning on the outside foot so every time I feel him transfer to the outside, I change the spin to a leg yield.

Note: Correcting this problem can vary from a few times if the horse is just learning to spin to a very long time if he has been spinning on the outside foot for a long time.

Spin Fix #3: Keep the Balance

Spin Fix #2: See The Inside Eye

Problem: Horse looks away from the turn

Why does this problem happen? If my horse turns his head or nose to the outside when he spins, I may have too much contact with the outside rein (very tempting to do with one hand on the reins!), which creates a counter-bend or his body is out of alignment (inside shoulder pushing into the turn) and he is turning his head to balance his body.

An example of horse turning head away from spin

How to correct this problem: Again, no use practicing spin incorrectly because the horse will just get better at spinning incorrectly and he’s not going to correct the problem without a little help. I review basic exercises (give to the rein, give to the leg) so I am confident I have control of his body. Then, with two hands on the reins, I ask him to spin with a light outside rein on his neck. When he takes his head to the outside, I pull-release the inside rein to ask him to look into the turn. A horse can be over-bent (another problem) so I want to remind him where his nose should be but not hold it there. It’s very important not to lose sight of his inside eye but at the same time not to maintain steady contact with the inside rein! Pull-release. Pull-release.

Example of horse spinning correctly - head low and turned a bit into spin.

Spin Fix #1: Step With Cadence

Problem: Horse hops or bounces when he spins instead of stepping around.

Why does this problem happen? Usually the horse has not been well enough schooled in basics but the reason might also be that the rider is concentrating too much on the pivot foot and, in a effort to encourage the horse to ‘plant’ the inside hind foot, restricts the horse with rein pressure.

How to correct this problem: If my horse wants to hop instead of stepping around in a spin, I go back to basics for a while. There’s no use practicing something wrong. I spend lots of time encouraging the horse to cross his outside front leg over the inside front with half-turns, paying particular attention to my rider aids (soft outside asking rein, give-and-take inside rein) and where he places his front feet. The first step with the inside should be to the side and back. If it isn’t, it will be in the way when he tries to step over it with his outside. When he can turn slowly and correctly, I gradually increase the speed.

Note: I am mindful of the fact that a horse may “hop” the first times he is asked in training to increase speed in a turn-around, a reaction to the increased pressure. It’s very important at this stage not to reward him for hopping by ending the spin when he is hopping. Instead, I allow him to slow down until he is stepping around again and then say “whoa”. I always finish with correct turn-arounds.

Running With Wolves "stepping" into a spin. Notice inside front leg stepping to the side and back.

I've always said a book could be written about spins alone because there are so many things that can go wrong. This post is the first in a series about some my "fixes" for spin problems.

The Biggest Little Word

There are a few words I hope my horse learns as I train him – walk, jog, lope, easy, whoa. There’s also a few words I say to myself and the biggest ‘little’ word in my horse training vocabulary is “wait”. Here’s why…

It’s so easy to get in a hurry and to rush my horse into a maneuver, especially in competition but, without exception, that maneuver will be prettier if I wait for my horse to respond and act. When I stop and think about how many steps there are between my first signal and the execution of the maneuver, it makes perfect sense.

• My brain thinks about what I am going to ask my horse to do
• I ask for the maneuver with rider aids for that maneuver
• My horse feels my rider aids (leg pressure, rein pressure, etc)
• My horse receives the message in his brain from his body
• My horse recognizes what I ask
• My horse sends a message to his body to perform the maneuver
• My horse performs the maneuver

Pretty incredible!

Spin: If I want my horse to spin to the right, I signal him by bracing my body (tells him to stay on the spot), adding a little weight in a stirrup (gives him the first clue as to the direction of the spin) and picking up my rein hand (tells him which way I want to go).  Then I wait. A trained horse will start to flow to the right. If I am impatient and pull on the bit or kick,  it could disturb his concentration and the spin may be trashed. Worse than that, it may not have been necessary. When training, of course, I may need to back up a request, but the “wait rule” still applies.

Lead change: I signal my horse to change leads by changing my hand and body and then I wait for the lead change. Wait for the horse to respond. If I get excited and pull on him, I could force his body out of alignment so it will be more difficult to change leads. (Of course if I'm running a pattern in a competition and he doesn't change leads I have to try something!) This works very well training my horse to change leads too if I have enough room for a long straight line. I ask for the change and wait for it to happen. Often it does...

Stop: I have prepared my horse to stop in the rundown, I have accelerated into the stop. When I reach the point where I want him to “bury his butt”, I just sit down and wait. If he is trained, he most certainly will try to stop; if he is not fully trained yet, he may make mistakes. In either case, any correction has to be after he has had a chance to respond on his own. If he is doing everything right and I apply rein pressure before he has had a chance to perform on his own, he will be thinking about that a little and the stop will not be as pretty!

Wildwood Champagne stopping with my hand down.

It’s tempting to panic a little in a class if I ask my horse to spin and he just stands there. Two seconds can seem like a minute when all eyes are on me and I used to start pulling right away. Now I give my horse time to think it through and do it on his own before I use stronger aids. I “wait” for the maneuver instead of forcing it.

Teaching the Turn-around

As soon as my horse is solid in basic maneuvers, I start teaching him the turn-around (spin). He must be reasonably responsive to rider aids in order for me to “place” him in a correct position so I wait until he is far enough along in his training to accept what I am asking - usually after 30 days or so. At that time, he is far from finished but has enough understanding of my aids to begin learning a basic turn-around.

Before I work on turn-arounds, I warm my horse up well with basic exercises, jogging, trotting and loping. Then I let him walk relaxed for a few minutes.

At first, I ask only a half-turn. Sometimes I work on the large circle I have just loped, turning to the inside, walking a few steps then turning to the inside again. This means I change directions every time, though, so more often, I will only work one direction at a time, asking a half-turn, releasing, walking forward in a straight line anywhere in the arena, then asking another half-turn the same way. When my colt is responding as well as I think he is capable of for his level of training I work the other direction.

Example to the right with two hands on the reins: Walk the horse forward (spins need forward motion!), brace your body just enough to stop most (not quite all!) of the forward motion and at the same time place the left rein on his neck (in the direction of your right shoulder but not pushing on the neck or over the neck). Now “help” him with the right (inside) rein with a pull-release motion and, if necessary, your left leg until he turns 180 degrees (half-turn). Release all aids and walk forward. Repeat several times. Change directions and repeat several times in that direction.

• Do not completely stop before you ask for the turn.
• Do not pull the outside rein across the neck. Instead, “ask” with only a touch.
• Do not lift your outside rein high – 4 inches or so is about right. Remember it is the asking rein and you have other aids to back it up.
• Maintain body aid until turn-around is completed. (If you release body aid the horse will walk forward out of the turn-around.)
• Use pull/release pressure with inside rein.
• Apply leg pressure with a “bump”, not a steady push.
• Make sure your outside leg is not asking for the spin first (It will be a correction if used last and hopefully the time will come when you do not need it.)
• Apply leg pressure last and only if it is needed.
• Release all aids and walk forward to a “new” spot to repeat.

Note: It's necesary to release rider aids slightly before the turn-around is completed because the horse is in motion and will complete it on his own. After your know your horse well, you will know how fast your horse "shuts off."I release most of mine at about one-eighth before the completed turn. In a class, this will ensure that I don't pick up a penalty for over-spinning.

When my horse has mastered a half-turn, I ask him to make a full turn (or one spin) by putting two half-turns together with a slight release at half. That is: walk, brace body, outside rein, inside rein, outside leg if necessary, then after one half-turn, release rein pressure slightly (but not body aid), ask for another half-turn. Release all aids and walk forward. Repeat as necessary. The following video is the only one I could find in my collection to demonstate teaching the turn-around:

It could be several months before I feel my horse is ready to perform multiple spins but when he is, it's only a matter of adding to what he already knows. After all, multiple spins are only multiple half-turns! i.e. four spins is eight half-turns. What is important in the first few months of training is correctness. A horse cannot spin fast if he is not correct. Conversely, when he is correct, the speed is easy - the spin almost takes on a life of its own. Speed, however, will magnify any little problems at the basic level. Speed increases the degree of difficulty (that's why we are rewarded for it in the reining pen!) In future posts, I will address several spin "issues", spinning with one hand and specific exercises to make a spin better and faster.

How Basic Exercises Relate to Reining Maneuvers

I’ve been talking a lot about basics – simple exercises to warm up your horse for more difficult ones. I’ve explained why I do basic exercises and how they train a young horse. I’ve also said that giving to rein and leg pressure (what basic exercises are) is the “whole program”. That may seem too simple, but it’s true. Of course, my horse must learn to “give” with refinement and at different gaits (which increases the degree of difficulty) and in combinations, but if I keep it simple in my mind – asking my horse to give to my hands and my legs – then he has the best chance to learn and execute anything I ask. And (I’ve said this before but it bears repeating!), if there is a problem at a higher level, it can and should be fixed at the basic level. Those basic exercises are closely related to the reining maneuvers.

Circles: Circles are an integral part of a reining training program from the first rides to the finished reining horse – and I want very correct circles. I use basics to position my horse in the correct frame to lope a circle – forward motion, give to the rein, give to the leg – and I use basics to keep him on the circle. For example, if my horse collapses into the circle, I apply inside leg to leg yield him back on the circle; if he bows out of the circle, I apply outside leg to leg yield him back on the circle. In a reining pattern, circles are performed at a lope but, if my horse is very resistant, I will drop back to a trot, jog or even a walk to correct.

Rundowns: As in circles, I use basics are to position my horse until he understands how to keep his body straight. A lot of times, training is about exaggerating the correction, so if he fades towards the wall, I might leg yield him well off the track. For example, if I am loping in the left lead in a straight line twenty feet away from the fence and my horse starts to fade over to the right toward the wall (he will be pushing into the right rein as well), I can leg yield him left off of my right leg well into the arena (farther than twenty feet!), then allow him to go straight again.

Lead changes: I cannot teach my horse to change leads if he does not give to pressure from reins and legs. That, along with forward motion executes a lead change. If I am loping in the left lead and want to change leads, I will collect my horse (give to the reins), move him off of the right leg a bit, then switch to move him off of my left leg for the change.

Spins: Spins are a series of half-turns on the haunches and a half-turn on the haunches uses all the basic exercises – forward motion and giving to reins and leg. For example, for a half turn to the left: With the left leg off the horse, I ask my horse to turn with my right (indirect or neck) rein, apply left rein in a give-and-take motion to keep nose turned (give to the reins), bump with the right leg (give to the leg). This is for a horse just learning a half-turn. For a trained reining horse, with one hand (give to the reins), I ask him to turn to the left and use my leg only if he needs it (give to the leg).

Stops: Stops are taught, and then executed, using all the basics. I ask for a sliding stop exactly as in the exercise:  vertical flexion, which is about response to my weight, voice and hands. That is, I change my weight (behind center of balance), say “whoa”, and then lift hand only if I need to.

Rollbacks: Rollbacks are merely putting two maneuvers together – a stop and a half-turn on the haunches – along with forward motion. Perfect rollbacks are the result of a good stop, correct response to the reins and timing (the rider’s responsibility!).

Back-ups: My horse learns to back up at a basic level (Basic Exercise: Vertical Flexion) and the maneuver is refined with training, using basics of giving to the reins, legs and weight. The basic exercise in vertical flexion is not really a back-up exercise (it is more about giving to both reins) but it does begin my horse’s understanding of the maneuver. Later, I want him to respond to the motion of my hands and the change of my weight for a pretty back-up.

This is a summary of how basic exercises relate to reining maneuvers. I will deal with each of the maneuvers specifically in later posts.